Mallorca DWS Climbing Guide for Newbies

All the deep water soloing questions you have, but can’t find answers for. Climbing level, safety, chalk, wet shoes, and more. Read on! Every year, Rockbusters organise a DWS trip to Mallora. Book yours here.  Deep water soloing has a long tradition not only in Mallorca, but all over the world. It’s always been a very niche activity, but as pointed out by the father of Mallorcan DWS, Miquel Riera, people have been climbing sea cliffs for as long as […]

Flow, climbing, and optimal human performance

Imagine it’s last day of your climbing trip. You’ve managed a few good sends, but there’s still one unclimbed project remaining. You’re trying your best, but you can’t put the moves together. You should have sent in your previous session. The frustration builds up, and a sense of disappointment creeps in despite your best intentions not to be childish. The boulder is some ten moves long and you’ve fallen off every single one, even the easy finish. The crux is […]

The Rocklands fever: How not to climb V10

Rocklands in South Africa. A bouldering paradise discovered in 1996, which in the last decade has quickly become one of the world’s hotspots for hard rock climbing. Elaborate shapes of orange sandstone litter the nearly deserted, rugged landscape. As the South African winter brings cold temps, low humidity and blue skies, boulderers from all over the globe flock towards Cederberg, the official geographical name of the region. Most of them are not your average climber and it almost feels like […]

The Fontainebleau Pillow Book

It’s been so long since I wrote my last post and there so much going through my head that I don’t really know where to start. Instead, I’ll start in the very middle of all the ideas that I had, just note down the most important points for you to consider. I call it the Fontainebleau Pillow Book because it all relates to the six weeks we spent in France and because I’ll follow the literary example of Sei Shōnagon, […]

#OWA: Why Female Focused Adventure Still Matters

❄A guest post by Olivia Kefauver, Outdoor Women’s Alliance New England Grassroots Team Leader❄ At thirteen, I was standing in the stern of a canoe wielding my plastic paddle at a cargo ship slowly passing across the St. Lawrence River with five other girls screaming into the wind. As pirates we were (naturally) threatening to commandeer it, but after five days canoeing through the rivers of New York State, powered by nothing more than our own bodies, we had bigger […]

Getting Stuck on “Zippatrocity”

I was first introduced to the most esoteric of grit classics by my friend Martin during a brief time when I lived in Sheffield. Martin had been projecting “Zippatrocity” for a few years already, and convinced me to go out with him to the Cowperstone. After a quick lesson in taping I begun to rather ineffectively wedge my body parts into the crack. The first part of the traverse was seeping, but the second, easier half seemed quite inviting. I enjoyed […]

Total Campusing Blast at BIFF 2017

It’s 10am and I’m on the bus from Sheffield back to London, still super hyper from last night’s BIFF at The Climbing Works, so forgive me if this post is just a stream of rambling. What can I say though, the psych is high! 😀 After attending the Beastmaker International Footless Festival for the first time last year, I promised myself to return stronger in 2017. Even though I came last at 2016’s event, the atmosphere was great and you […]

Everything wrong with “When Feminism Goes Too Far”

The original article, “When Feminism Goes Too Far” by Davita Gurian, can be read here.  1) The “there are weekly events for women (so we don’t need feminism)” argument   There are weekly events for women because most climbing events are by default for men. We don’t blame men for it, that’s just a fact. Look at numbers. 2) The “media produces multiple accounts of women climbing (so we don’t need feminism) argument Without being picky, the author writes from the […]

Climbing: Managing A Finger Injury

The internet is full of advice on what to do when a finger injury happens, but most of it seems incomplete, conflicting, and really darn confusing. So, I decided to put together this step by step guide based on my own experience. Please note I’m not a medical specialist, and the list below only sums up what I got to know through reading and asking around. It worked for me, it might work for you, but possibly something else would […]

5 Epic Winter Vacation Spots for Climbers

❄Guest post by Rachel O’Conner❄ I feel like I blinked and this year was over. Did we really get 365 days? I demand a recount. But as I convince myself to come to grips with the fact that this year is ending, it’s also time for me to make my annual bucket list. It’s not your typical bucket list, as you might have guessed, but it’s one that I check off before the year ends. Hey, who knows how long we […]

The Zen Art of Climbing Projects

Let’s get this one out of the way: I don’t know much about long term projects. The most sessions I spent on a boulder problem is six*, both on ‘Papa Jango’ (7B/C), which I managed to top out, and on ‘The Green Traverse’ (7A), which still eludes me (I even managed to fall from the easy finishing mantle). But what I know very well is the intense, internal battle that happens when you can’t make it happen despite feeling like […]

When a Pulley Snaps: The Honest Account

It’s a tale we’ve all heard before. The dreaded sound of a popping tendon, hollow and sharp as a snapping twig, that puts you out of the game for weeks, months, and sometimes even longer. It can happen to beginners insisting on playing on the fingerboard too early, intermediates overzealous on the campus board, and even to pros projecting away on their super futuristic lines. It’s almost inevitable, a normal part of our sport, but we fear it like nothing […]

How To Climb Better Than You

So many climbers wish they were better, but they don’t actually act on it. Our culture reinforces the notion that it’s talent and some mysterious predispositions that get people up the ranks in whatever they do. We celebrate outcomes, yet we don’t celebrate the process. The work that is put in remains hidden, creating an illusion that champions are born. However, research actually proves that it’s consistency and repetition that breed success. Not everyone can be Shauna Coxsey, but everyone can […]

We Got BIFFed

(a bit late but I was busy moving from Chamonix to Bulgaria…) As January was coming to a close, I planned to visit Alice for some action on the Peak District grit. Our excitement was quickly curbed by a catastrophic weather forecast and I said, half jokingly, it was a pity that BIFF registration was closed. I arrived the following day and Alice casually announced that she bumped into Shauna Coxsey and signed us up for the comp. Despite all […]

The 3 Most Interesting Climbing Start Ups

HEARTBEAT Heartbeat is an active lifestyle and climbing clothing brand created by a visionary young entrepreneur from Poland, Ania Pipinska. Her clothing is simple, durable and ethically made in her home country. What’s special about Ania is that she decided to run her business from a country where the outdoor industry is nowhere near as developed as in other parts of Europe, making her one of the driving forces for the development of the sector in her region. Bringing the […]

Reviewing The First Year Of Training

A year ago I realised I was stuck. After three years of pottering around the climbing wall and occasionally hitting the rock at the weekend, I could barely climb V5. My goals were a couple of 7A classics in the Peak District and I was determined to figure out how to work my way through the plateau. It dawned on me that I could get a coach and online coaching seemed like the most sensible way to go about it. […]